The Box Tree Ilkley: Chef Brayden Davies marks first year at helm of former two Michelin stars restaurant

Over the years, it has developed a formidable reputation, attracting celebrities and culinary enthusiasts while setting the standard for gastronomic excellence. It formerly held two Michelin stars, but its fortunes have fluctuated over the years.

But now, under Brayden’s leadership, the team has sights set on reclaiming that former glory by balancing time-honoured tradition with modern innovation.

“The Box Tree has always been a well-known restaurant,” says 27-year-old Brayden. “When I got the call, I was interested straight away. This was the first restaurant to get two Michelin stars outside of London, the history is incredible.

“But as I came in, the facts were the facts. The restaurant lost its Michelin star in 2019. I can’t comment on why that was, but it was a massive shock for anyone who worked in the industry. Of course, the dream is to get the star back.”

Brayden’s passion for cooking was ignited in his teenage years living in Australia, where he studied home economics in school. He says: “My grandparents are British and have always been very traditional with their Sunday roasts.

“That kind of food isn’t as popular in Australia because of the hotter climate - but I always thought they were amazing. Being around food like that all the time made the decision to go into cooking easy.”

He picked up a kitchen porter job at the age of 15, before moving to renowned Perth restaurant Clarke’s of North Beach, which proved to be a formative experience. But his aspirations extended beyond Australia.

Fascinated by the rich culinary traditions of Europe and the prestige of Michelin-starred restaurants - a ranking system not yet used in Australia - he leveraged his British heritage to relocate to the UK.

“It was a bit of a shock to the system,” he reflects. “Working in a 23-strong chef brigade for the first time was a real challenge. There was a lot of politics and you have to fit into your place, so that was a massive learning curve.”

After the homesickness wore off, Brayden sought positions with some of Britain’s most esteemed culinary institutions. He honed his craft at Northcote Manor in Lancashire, The Raby Hunt near Darlington, and Shaun Rankin’s restaurant at Grantley Hall. Each establishment provided invaluable lessons - Northcote Manor offered classical training, The Raby Hunt exposed him to innovative techniques, and Grantley Hall instilled a deep understanding of luxury hospitality.

When Brayden assumed the head chef position at The Box Tree at the start of 2023, he inherited both a legacy and a challenge - and his first priority was to modernise the kitchen.

“The building has been here for a long time, and with that comes a lot of restrictions - we couldn’t just knock down walls,” he explains. “It’s a pentagon shape, so it was quite difficult to design.

“But now it’s complete, it looks almost like an alien workshop with all of the new equipment. That was really important for me - if you want to hit a certain standard, you need the right kitchen.”

Beyond infrastructure, Brayden recognised the importance of honouring The Box Tree’s legacy. He delved into the restaurant’s archives, studying historic menus to identify dishes that defined its golden years.

One such dish, sole veronique from a 1988 menu, was reimagined for modern palates. His version featured Dover sole with grapes, almonds, razor clams, and a veronique sauce infused with Noilly Prat and tarragon - a delicate balance between nostalgia and modernity.

“On each menu, there’s always something that references the history,” he says. “We recently made a snack based on a full English breakfast, which we served on a little plate you might expect to get at your nan’s house. That’s a really unique thing here too. The crockery might not look like it fits at The Box Tree, but when it sits at the table, it really does.”

Brayden’s tenure has already yielded significant progress. “It weirdly clicked,” he says. “I knew it would, but there’s always that doubt when you do anything new. The overall consensus from diners has been that it’s getting better and better - but we're not looking back, we’re constantly at the drawing board.”

The restaurant’s tasting menu has been expanded from five to nine courses, offering diners a curated journey through flavours and textures. And his efforts have not gone unnoticed. Recently, The Box Tree was included in SquareMeal’s list of the top 100 best restaurants in the UK.

Central to Brayden’s culinary philosophy is an unwavering commitment to seasonality and local ingredients. “Ninety per cent of the meat is from Yorkshire,” he proudly states. “And I love using Yorkshire rhubarb, it’s the best in the world. I’m not biased in saying that, because I'm not from Yorkshire.”

There are Australian touches too, reflecting Brayden’s roots. Ingredients like finger limes and Tasmanian mountain peppers occasionally feature in his dishes, along with Australian wagyu.

At the beginning of his second year leading The Box Tree, Brayden says he is dedicated to elevating the dining experience. “In coming here, I wanted to make the restaurant appealing and modern, but also to respect the history,” he says. “I want to carry on doing that - it’s my goal for 2025.”