Restaurant review: Black Swan, Oldstead, York

They also have three AA rosettes for their food, five AA Stars and a Breakfast Award for their accommodation and a horde of other plaudits. Quite an achievement for the straightforward, family-run inn I initially visited about six or seven years ago. This was my first visit since the awards have showered down upon them, so I was curious to see in what ways – inevitably – this has altered a favourite inn of mine.

Visually there is little change; the Black Swan is just as neat and pretty, nestled as it is in the quiet hamlet of Oldstead between Kilburn and Byland. The downstairs stone-flagged bar, and what has always been the “pubby” part of the inn, looked more or less unchanged. The cosy window seats, antique furnishings and the work of the Mousey Thompson craftsmen of Kilburn on the oak fittings are all still there. Even the more formal elegant, dining room upstairs appeared untouched.

The more subtle differences begin with the menu which is now a serious, full-fledged affair. Gone are the pub favourites to be enjoyed in the bar snuggled up by the fire (though you can have a sandwich if you ask). These are replaced by a clutch of a-la-cartes, which cater for the carnivore and a separate menu for vegetarians, plus there is the now ubiquitous Tasting Menu.

Prices also reflect the elevated status of the Black Swan with £11-plus on the starters, £21 plus for mains. Even without the cost of a slab of meat or fish, the veggie menu comes at £7 and £17 respectively. If the gourmand in you gets a grip then expect to pay £70 per person for the pleasure of the Tasting Menu.

Chef Adam Jackson heads the kitchen and I was excited to see which direction he has taken his menu. I have yet to be disappointed with any of his food and looking at the array of modern-classics with a smattering of retro dishes, I very much doubted it would start now. We were teased into the menu with an amuse bouche of a tiny cup of velvety bean soup trimmed up nicely with a Pancetta dressing. Then up first, pan-fried foie gras, a dish so predictable on a Star menu. Served here though, with fig, caramelised onion and, surprisingly but it worked, pistachio, gave it more of an edge than the old stalwart is used to.

Next, a Japanese-style tuna tartare wasabi, ginger, lime and coriander. A circular mound of finely diced tuna was surrounded by upright, finely pointed sesame tuiles. An effect on the plate that more resembled a medieval coronet than a dish about to be eaten. The fine dice of squeaky-fresh fish had a distinctive Seventies feel, but cleverly, the precise oriental flavours made it bang on trend.

Moving on to mains, up went the bar. A stunning “plate of pork” came as a finely pressed square of belly accompanied by two pink nuggets of wild garlic stuffed fillet. Pak choi, blobs of apple sauce, shreds of crisp apple and a couple of spears of sharp, flavour-packed crisp crackling finished off the dish well.

And, if I didn’t think it could get better, meaty halibut came on a bed of Pink Fir potatoes cut through with squid, Jerusalem artichoke and a smattering of samphire. A clever dish which married together beautifully and showed such skill from the kitchen in its near perfect execution

Somehow though, they then managed to crank the bar even higher. A pudding of a seasonal rhubarb crumble, set custard and a Calvados ice cream was met with gasps of delight topped only by those when presented with a Black Forest gateau. This dessert may be retro in title but that’s where it stopped; it could not have been more up to date had it tried. A ring of chocolate ganache filled with hot cherry sauce and cream and a topping of a chocolate disc with cherries. Gorgeous.

The wine list at the Black Swan is captivating, with a vast number of interesting and unusual wines, but it is also rather confusing in its mix of old world styles and the new worlds referred to as alternatives? There are easier ways to list wine surely? Prices are keen but do reflect some quality wines.

Do I like the new Black Swan? Yes, and I miss a little of the old. The food though costlier than before is appropriate to the quality. I think, however, it is a shame that the bar menu downstairs has, in essence, gone and the provenance of the food is no longer mentioned on the menu.

Service here has always been strong, precise but never with airs and graces. It now feels more edgy and a tad more formal, though there is still time for a chat and smiles are not rationed.

Despite these minors gripes, they have a great thing going on and wholeheartedly deserve all the applause they receive.

Black Swan, Oldstead, York, North Yorkshire, YO61 4BL. 01347 868387, www.blackswanoldstead.co.uk. Dinner: daily, 6-9pm; lunch: Thursday to Saturday, 12-2pm, Sunday, 12-2.30pm.