Restaurant Review: Moyles, Hebden Bridge

Hebden Bridge is a jewel of the Calder Valley packed with historical and retail interest. It accommodates more than its fair share of pubs and inns and cosy caffs but what takes me there is the fare at the council-owned cinema. The nearest boozer is The Railway, across the street, often spilling onto the forefront in good weather, well run, decent ales, a jukebox with Groovin’ by the Young Rascals – hard to beat for a summery pop tune.

Pre or post-cinema supper is sometimes at the Thai place, just round the corner from the Picture House – amply reviewed in this magazine. The only posh place in Hebden that I have found is Moyles, across from the Thai restaurant, rubbing along with The Railway pub.

It has boutique bedrooms, a smart, modern bar lounge with a thirst-mashing array of beers, and adjacent dining rooms.

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This being the age of citizen journalists I thought I’d check its on-line reviews. In October a diner called Kate gave it just one star, commented “pretentious and mediocre food”, but liked the service and location. Kevin, there in August 2009, was even more dismissive but there have possibly been a few changes since his visit. Conversely, “Traveler” in January this year gave it a full five stars. Hmm. How can we be sure that the semi-anonymous are not biased one way or the other? I treat them with caution. The site Tripadvisor had more favourable than unfavourable comments.

The Moyles in-house website is fulsome in its appeal. It carries this enticer from Neil Sowerby, writing in the Manchester Evening News: “At times, I might have shut my eyes and been whisked to London’s Pied á Terre or Tom Aiken’s such was the swanky feel of the place.”

Just how many Moyles diners will have even heard of these presumably hallowed London joints? So, I’ll avoid any name-dropping. OK, just one reference for starters: “All the time I could have shut my eyes and been convinced I was having a bad bout of tinnitus.” Put that on the website.

The cause was some unstoppable whistling bit of kit in the kitchen (semi-open plan with the main dining room). That pushed us into the next dining room, where it was still just as loud, and our reserved table was against a wide gap in the wall which was blanked off with the type of folding screen seen in theatrical changing rooms. Noisy? Swanky? Make your own mind up.

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There is a terrific bar lounge on the same floor, with a semi-open plan layout that carries the happy babble from the pubby bit into the dining area.

It was otherwise a quiet night in the dining rooms. The waitress was lovely, from Lyon, said she liked Hebden Bridge, apparently hadn’t heard of Paul Bocuse’s L’Auberge du Pont de Collonges near Lyon, holder of three Michelin rosettes and inspiration for the Bocuse d’Or award (yarr, I’ve eaten there, got the signed book).

Moyles is owned and run by Simon Moyle, fabricator of the wooden napkin holders inlaid with a 2p coin. Mission statement: “Our restaurant is light and airy and the atmosphere is informal. It has rapidly gained a reputation for very good food. All the ingredients are fresh and as many as possible are sourced locally. Moyles is an AA Rosette awarded restaurant and has many other credits of which we are justifiably proud.”

The chef is Alastair Lynas, ex-Shibden Mill and Holdsworth Hall via early days with Terry Leybourne in Northumberland and more recently the inauguration of a joint in Dubai called the Left Bank Bar, in case you are going over to re-assess the safety of your investments.

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I enjoyed curried smoked haddock kedgeree. The broccoli and cheese soup was palatable and seasonal, oh so common at this time of year, and not at all memorable.

My main course of hake in a blue cheese sauce was a matter of opinion. The chef’s would be that the pair were a fine match; mine was that the strong cheese overpowered the hake – a thin bit of tail with a hint of ammonia through the sauce. This table d’hôte menu was priced at £11.50 for one course, £16.50 for two courses and £19,50 for three, plus beverages. Amounts are sufficient rather than ample, if you see what I mean, and a helping of veg, chips, mash or boiled potatoes are £2.50 each.

A bottle of white Chilean wine at £15.95 was the usual profit-enhancing product available at much less off the shelf.

The ambience (noisy kitchen appliance, poor table choice) didn’t work for me on the first visit. The food seemed merely average value for money.

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So, I went back in early January. The kitchen was still buzzing frightfully but I enjoyed the meal much more. The menu choices are tempting and a decent meal in this setting for £40 for two plus drinks is acceptable and no I don’t think it is pretentious. The yummy bit was a chewy chocolate brownie with almond, orange and a dollop of vanilla ice cream. The skin on the fish (salmon and sea bass) should have been crisper. The kale with the bass (two bones left in) was in big tough leaves and the langoustine bisque was too skimpy to soak up the potato mash.

Minor details, I’d say, and a succulent lump of boned shin beef on winter root veg was just right. I expected a bit more product knowledge from the waitress, but she was really nice and noticed I hadn’t drunk the latte coffee: it was far too hot and far too weak.

Verdict: On a third visit I may love it.

Moyles Hotel & Restaurant, New Road, Hebden Bridge, West Yorkshire, HX7 8AD. Tel: 01422 845272.