Norman's, Kirkburton: 'I'm The Yorkshire Post's food reviewer and this was my favourite meal of 2024'

I’ve dined out a dozen times for these pages and quite a few just for the hell of it. So, put a match to the fire, pull up a chair and pour another Advocaat.

I’ve eaten well, very well, averagely and badly in the last year. Mostly well (which given the tricky economic climate is nothing short of a miracle) and for the final dinner of 2024, off-the-scale-superb.

January kicked off nicely in Kirburton, at Norman’s, a friendly neighbourhood restaurant run by Oliver Roberts, a Shibden Mill escapee and one of the finest sommeliers and the actual finest FOH in Yorkshire.

They’d been open a matter of weeks and in the kitchen back then was a very talented young woman sending out deliciously rustic dishes.

At Pranzo in Ilkley I enjoyed a textbook aranchini, and pappardelle with four hour braised beef shin ragu – I’m rarely happier than with a big bowl of pasta and a glass of gutsy Primitivo in front of me.

A crowd of us fetched up at OWT in Leeds and ate everything on the menu; all of it good but standout dishes included a cracking winter root salad – carrot and parsnip dressed beautifully in lemon and tahini, and insanely smooth hummus.

The food at Nowhere in Holmfirth was a revelation: cumin-spiced lamb cutlets and braised beef cheek so tender it fell apart just looking at it - it’s one of the best things I’ve eaten this year.

There’s a microbrewery on site, and the building is a community hub too, with a tiny cinema and bring-your-own-vinyl nights.

There was a fair amount of themed Bronte going on at Howarth Old Post Office but the offer was way more than novel; heritage beets, white balsamic and hazelnuts, and zingy, lemony butterbean stew. And oh that fabulous golden syrup ginger cake.

At the very smartly refurbished and re-imagined Penny Bun in Askwith I remember the décor and the company more than the food, but they’d been open only five minutes and hadn’t really hit their stride so I’ll cut them some slack and return.

In the summer we had delightful dumplings at OI! in Marsden, and a several-notches-up-from-pub grub dinner at the Butchers Arms at Hepworth.

There was the usual excellence at Coin in Hebden Bridge – this time, a supper club run by Thomas McManus and Amy Turford, both ex the mighty Moorcock at Norland.

I was days out of hospital, the owner of a new hip and a bit giddy with morphine still coursing round my veins, no doubt interfering with Amy’s marvellous wine flight.

Long-established Ditto in Whitby was a joy, and the generous chunk of cod loin on celeriac remoulade memorable. I still can’t work out why it’s taken me 20 years to get there.

The Brick Yard at Brighouse, when I finally found it was a proper highlight - great food and huge fun; go for the Wood Pigeon Kiev and stay for the Crack Pie and F***ing Good Red. I’m not even kidding. That’s about it, bar one or two I’m not mentioning because this is a celebration of a year of good food, right?

Which brings me neatly to the last supper – and, as it turns out, the best; I started the year at Norman’s, and that’s where I end it.

It’s been an eventful 12 months for Roberts, the main change being the arrival of Will Webster fresh from Halifax.

He was Head Chef at the Shibden Mill the last time I was there so I’m no stranger to his wild ideas, and I know he’s got the skills to carry them off, but nothing could prepare me for what came out of the kitchen this time.

Webster’s wry sense of humour manifests in the likes of ‘tatty sauce’ and ‘pickled onion Monster Munch’ listed in his dishes – but don’t be fooled, these aren’t gimmicks.

A smoked mackerel tart pops into my mouth in one, a gorgeous little crisp thing with pokey wasabi designed to kick start any appetite.

Beetroot tartare is a looker: studded with apple, capers and candied hazelnuts it goes beautifully with a plate of stunning cured salmon pastrami.

Next up, a crispy pheasant sausage ball stuffed with olives, with pine honey and something called Christmas tree emulsion, all zhuzhed up with Norwegian Spruce fronds.

At the other end of the festive scale, a dish of brown food shows up and it turns out to be absolutely bouncing with flavour – it’s Jerusalem artichokes with marmite butter and that roast tatty sauce we were promised.

I can’t even begin to imagine how that came into the world but I’m awfully glad it has. A prettier dish is stone bass – a perfectly seared, fat, pearlescent chunk of it on clam and bacon chowder with slivers of charred corn – and Monster Munch beurre blanc.

It’s a slam-dunk winner. Last up, lamb rump – again, precisely cooked, sweet and tender with a piquant pistachio crumb and something called green olive caramel. Nope, me neither.

Two extraordinary desserts bring everything to a close, one of them featuring parsnip parfait, the other cep ice cream. By now the place is jumping.

Roberts works the room like the pro he is; cheerful and watchful, recommending wines from the brilliantly eclectic list: he’s all but spinning plates. Webster has made a seamless fit into the Norman’s team and is clearly having fun, his imagination given full rein.

But I reiterate: there’s no trickery or sleight of hand, just astonishing technical proficiency, and dishes bristling with flavour and balance, vitality and wit. It’s huge fun and lord knows we need some of that.

Dinner of the Year lads.

Welcome 5/5

Food 5/5

Atmosphere 5/5

Prices 5/5

Norman’s, 22 North Road, Kirkburton, HD8 0RH t: 01484 943088

www.normans-restaurant.co.uk Dinner for two: ten plates plus wine £130

Tuesday – Saturday 11 – 10 Sunday/Monday closed.