The Harrogate Grille

Is there a magicians' bar somewhere?" asks my friend as we walk through the doors at the Balmoral Hotel and make our way through to the adjoining restaurant, Grille.

It turns out to be a a perfectly reasonable question. He has been here before, many years ago and an affable waiter confirms that, it did indeed once have a bar with a magician theme. In those days it was known across Harrogate as Villu Toots. Since then the hotel has received a decadent boutique refurb blending contemporary colours, retro design pieces and renaissance furniture. The brasserie was extensively remodelled with a slick new look that would not look out of place in the capital.

Out with the kooky and in with the metropolitan.

There's a stylish feel with a sleek bar area and bold use of black with sumptuous banquette seating. But where there was once a menu that extolled the virtues of classic brasserie dishes there is now something rather different, and far bolder. Check the website to view a stunningly shot and perfectly presented piece of roasted bone marrow which exemplifies a confident menu bursting with creativity.

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The man at the heart of this change is new head chef John Farrar. His culinary career began at Leeds's Pool Court. Since then he's spent the last 12 years cooking at some of the country's best restaurants and working with some legendary chefs. Most recently, he worked with former 3 Michelin star chef Pierre Koffman, who chose Farrar to join his crew of eight for "Pierre on the Roof", a "pop-up" restaurant at Selfridges, where he worked alongside Tom Aiken, Eric Chavot and Tom Kitchin.

The menu here shows Farrar can talk the talk, with a "Show of Yorkshire Pork" and a "Pressing of Guinea Fowl". Thankfully he can also walk the walk as our two starters revealed. Ravioli of Golden Cross and Roast Diver Scallops were assembled with consummate skill and were a joy to behold. They promised great things.

The ravioli is light, and filled with rich fluffy "Golden Cross" goats' cheese, perfectly set off by some neat frills:

pecan praline and a delicate truffle balsamic dressing. The scallops, which are whoppers, are expertly done, with an eclectic array of accompaniments – a touch of osso bucco, a little saffron and red pepper. It's a masterclass in delicate and unexpected flavour combinations.

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Our main meals are equally impressive. The steak and chips is far from ordinary. Succulent rib steak comes in two chunks done two ways, one griddled, one pan-fried and roasted.

Both are spot on, and no doubt come from some very well looked after animals if the taste is anything to go by. Even the chips have something magical about them.

They're the stuff of childhood fantasy – impossibly fluffy potato inside beautifully crisp golden shells. Rather less childish is the quivering piece of bone marrow served alongside, but it's delicious nonetheless.

My friend's skate wings are also remarkable, the fish flesh treated much like monkfish, served rolled in crispy skin with a slim filling of rich, braised oxtail. It may sound odd, but it certainly worked.

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For dessert the generous cheese plate has a huge range, beginning with a light Guernsey goats' cheese, working up through gems like an Old Peculier Swaledale and Mrs Bell's new Bluemin Blue from Thirsk, to Oxford Isis, a wonderfully oozy cheese that's so pungent your vision blurs just looking at it (It's pretty good though).

The Study of Chocolate steals the show. It's a circle of imaginative treats that includes a dark chocolate funnel filled with a Horlicks parfait, a rich chocolate cake with digestive ice cream, a homemade oreo, and, best of all, a tribute to Feast lollies of old – chocolate ice cream in a stick of dark chocolate rolled in what looks like chopped nuts, but turns out to be popping candy. Masterful.

At about 90 for such culinary prowess, this is an absolute steal. We had just a few wines by the glass rather than a bottle (and the impressive wine list would make it very easy to spend much more) but with its new chef, Grille has entered the Yorkshire big league in terms of quality and these prices are very reasonable indeed.

I don't know of anywhere else that presents you with a goody bag containing a loaf of bread for your breakfast on the way out. A class act, from start to finish.

The Harrogate Grille, The Balmoral Hotel, Franklin Mount, Harrogate, North Yorkshire, HG1 5EJ. 01423 565 800.

YP MAG 6/11/10

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