‘I followed the Dales Way Link between Harrogate and Ilkley - and was sabotaged by cows’

In October, planning a multi-day hike is a game of weather roulette. Instead, my friend and I planned a day hike along one of its extension trails: the Harrogate Link.

On paper, the route was straightforward: start in Harrogate’s gardens, pass Swinsty Reservoir, and cross scenic moorland to finish in Ilkley.

Storm Boelo was brewing and there was a weather warning from 3pm, so we arrived in Harrogate at 7am, allowing eight hours for a 6.5-hour route.

The first impression was beautiful. On a quiet Saturday morning, dog walkers and joggers were slowly emerging, and the sky was dappled with a candyfloss-pink sunrise.

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Starting outside the Royal Pump Room Museum, we wove through the autumnal foliage and manicured landscapes of Valley Gardens, admiring its Japanese Garden and glass-domed Sun Pavilion.

At Harlow Carr Gardens, the trail followed a fenced boundary, diverting through atmospheric woodland, surrounded by orange bracken and piles of chopped logs.

The problems only began once we approached a cluster of farms. Flanked by a field of stampeding bullocks — clearly elated by the excitement of two hikers passing by — we emerged at a gateway blocked by large female cows.

The usual process is simple: walk away, wait for them to become distracted, and then discreetly scurry past. 15 minutes later, though, the cows were still straining over the gate. They showed no sign of budging.

“I wonder if we’ve come at feeding time,” my friend joked.

We peered over the wall into the adjacent field; no use, there was a hole in the wall, so the cows had access to both fields. Our only option was to double back.

The detour was a tedious 45 minutes, mostly along the roadside. Cars whizzed past as we drenched our shoes and twisted our ankles in the hidden divots of the long grass.

“I really hope there are no cows in that next field,” my friend muttered. I silently agreed: between the looming Storm Boelo and the prospect of returning to Penny Pot Lane’s narrow verge, another detour was extremely unappealing.

Passing Prospect Pond, though, our fears were confirmed.

Not only were the maps directing us through a field of cows — who had instantly spotted us and begun trudging towards the gate — but the neighbouring fields were, too.

There was no way of bypassing them without doubling back again; it was officially a roadblock.

With only a few hours before the weather warning, we decided to avoid another lengthy detour and call it a day.

There was only one thing left to do: I phoned my dad.

“I can come get you,” his voice had crackled down the line. “Can you get to The Curious Cow?”

It was a sensible solution; The Curious Cow of Harrogate was a pub only a few kilometres down the road. Still, the irony wasn’t lost on me.

Defeated, we ordered consolation drinks surrounded by paintings of fluffy Highland cows.

Would I try the Harrogate-Ilkley link route again? Possibly. In the future, though, I’d skip starting in Harrogate and begin the trail at Swinsty Reservoir.

The parks in Harrogate are beautiful, but I’d rather save them for a post-brunch stroll or leisurely takeout coffee.

Besides, I’ve seen enough cows to last me a lifetime.